![]() I am not providing gerber files YET because this isn't a design I back fully. This cut cost but it will be added in v2. The reason I didn't use a controller that can do both is because the battery I used had a protection circuit in it. With lithium ion batteries it is imperative to discharge them safely. With the current board I designed it using a controller that only charged the battery. One that will charge and discharge the battery and have my rapid fire mod as well. With this information gathered I am now designing a "v2" board. I could've used a 5 volt boost to the micro USB but that wasn't necessary since the lithium ion voltage was close to 3 already and the controller had a cut off voltage of 1.8 (ish?). So I thought a voltage higher than 3 in the battery cavity would present problems. For those wondering why I was surprised to see my controller run fine at 4.2 volts The 5 volt USB and 3 volt battery input are not ran in parallel. The battery cavity delivers 3 volts to the controller which is 'close' to a lithium ion battery. The controller has a 5 volt input from USB and a battery cavity. I ended up modding my board to discharge the battery into the controller rather than the buck boost.This also got rid of a switch I would have used if things worked as intended. This discovery cut out the need to use a buck/boost entirely. To my surprise my controller ran just fine at 4.2 volts. I referenced the data sheet and was within the limits but had to rethink things.Īfter I discovered this problem I messed around with my controller to see how much voltage it could take. This not only made the board warm but drew more current from the 700 mah battery. The converter I used ended up dissipating too much heat. The converter would knock down the freshly charged 4.2 lithium ion battery voltage to 3.3 volts and it would step up the battery voltage to 3.3 once it dropped below. My idea was to use a 3.3 volt buck/boost converter to emulate a fully charged 2 double A battery setup. I also threw in my rapid fire design just because even though I am not using it. I wanted to charge a lithium ion battery using the Xbox controllers 5 volt input from the micro USB and discharge the battery through a 3.3 volt buck/boost converter. When I designed the board I had a few goals in mind. However, shortly after soldering all the components on and testing it I was left with a problem that made me have to redesign the board. ![]() When I set out to make this project I did my research and used real life data to implement into my design. (I had to upload the schematic in parts because eagle exports looked horrible) Theories and actuality are two different worlds in terms of application. Here are the best Xbox Series X|S battery packs and chargers available today.One thing I have learned over the years is that with electronics you never should expect something to go according to plan. From the official simple single battery charger from Xbox to striking LED-lit chargers that can handle four batteries at once, there are plenty of choices out there. Some come with extra batteries and docks, letting you charge more than one controller at a time. There are plenty of Xbox Series X|S rechargeable batteries and charging docks out there. This makes rechargeable batteries both an economical and ethical choice for gamers. Not only are disposable batteries more expensive, but if not disposed of properly they are bad for the environment. While the Xbox Series X and S brought tons of new features and hardware improvements, the one thing that was completely overlooked was the controller's use of disposable batteries. OIVO Rechargeable Controller Battery Pack with Charger Station Venom Twin Charging Dock with 2 x Rechargeable Battery Packs
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